| 
The cause
  of cracking in mangoes is the same whether it’s mangoes, oranges or tomatoes. The
  majority of cracks are caused by irregular periods of dry and wet
  weather.  Abundant rain alternating
  with dry spells will produce stages of slow growth followed by rapid growth,
  resulting in cracked fruit.   
In
  addition, a fungus or bacteria may invade these cracks and cause the fruit to
  rot.  The weather is beyond our control,
  but if irrigation is involved, an even supply of moisture throughout the
  growing season will help eliminate cracking in fruit.  
Also, anthracnose fungal disease, common on mangoes, can cause deep cracking in certain varieties which are especially
  susceptible to this disease. The florigon
  mango variety is rated ‘moderately resistant to anthracnose.’ | 
Pages
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Friday, August 31, 2012
Cracked Mangoes
Friday, August 24, 2012
Invader in the Lawn
Tuesday, August 21, 2012
The Citrus Tree Switch : Sweet to Sour
| 
 Have you ever purchased an orange tree, harvested sweet oranges for many years, only to have a crop of sour fruit the next?   
All commercially sold citrus trees are
  budded. A budded tree is like a grafted tree, except a single bud is used
  instead of a graft which is a few inches of stem containing several
  buds.  When you look at the trunk of a
  citrus tree, you should be able to observe a slight to obvious bulge. This is
  where the original budding took place; it is called the bud-union. Everything
  above that bulge or bud-union grew from that bud and is the variety of tree
  you purchased; everything below is of the original rootstock seedling.  
Sometimes shoots originating from below the bud-union will grow
  up into the tree. These are typically covered with large thorns. If the shoots not
  pruned out, they will continue to grow, branch and eventually form a good
  part of the tree. Rootstock branches are usually more vigorous and will
  eventually blossom and produce fruit. This fruit is different from the variety you originally purchased, and
  most often is quite sour. These branches must be cut out so the original
  budded variety can repopulate the tree and produce sweet fruit.  | 
Tuesday, August 14, 2012
What is Chinese Spinach?
| 
Chinese
  spinach is not what we consider true spinach but is actually known as an
  amaranth; that is, plants that come from the genus amaranthus. Although several species in this
  group are considered weeds, others are used as high-protein
  grains, leafy vegetables or valued as ornamentals. It is an ancient crop
  originating in the Americas, with inflorescences and foliage ranging from purple
  and red to gold. 
The amaranth that is known as Chinese
  spinach is grown for its tender leaves. Depending on the variety, this plant
  can vary in foliage color, leaf shape, plant height and flavor. The plants
  grow well in hot weather, preferring a sunny location with plenty of
  moisture.  Don’t worry about planting
  too densely; once the seedlings are up and growing, the young plants can be
  thinned to six inches apart. The plants that have been thinned are edible!
  When established, the growing tips can be pinch to force the plant to branch
  and make more new, tender growth.  The
  tender young leaves and stems are cooked like spinach or used for stir-fry
  and soup. They are quite high in protein. Chinese Spinach is also known as
  Calaloo, Hon-toi-moi, Tampala, or hin choy. 
   
Chinese spinach seeds can be
  ordered from various seed companies.  When buying the seed from a catalog, look
  for entries under Amaranthus and make sure "edible for greens"
  is stated.  As mentioned above, some
  varieties of amaranthus are grown for grain while others for the leafy
  greens.  | 
Tuesday, August 7, 2012
Ivory Nut Palm
| 
Part of the immature seed of the
  ivory nut palm is pulpy and sweet and is used as food for both people and
  animals. The mature, dry seeds however, become so hard that it requires a
  hacksaw to cut one in half. They are known as vegetable ivory and are a
  sustainable, alternative to animal ivory. 
  Many beautiful carvings have been produced from these seeds.  
During Victorian times, thimbles,
  dice and jewelry were manufactured from this substance. Before plastic
  buttons became popular, it was a key material in the button industry. During
  the 1920′s, 20% of all buttons made in the United States were made out of the
  seed of the ivory nut palm. If you have never seen the beautiful carvings
  made from these seeds, check out a web site like http://waynesword.palomar.edu/pljan99.htm  
Germinating seeds of the ivory nut
  palm is difficult. Therefore, plant as many as possible since not all will
  germinate.  Ones that do germinate, may
  take several months or even up to a year.  If possible, allow the fruit to fall, do not
  pick it from the tree.  
One method of germination is to
  plant the seed, anywhere from half buried to just under the soil, in a
  sterile, well-drained planting media. Keep it moist but saturate log the
  soil. Some horticulturalists insist that removing the seed coat from around
  the seed is important while others have been successful without removing it.  
 Since the seeds take a long time to sprout,
  there is always the danger of insects and fungi destroying the seed. Yet as
  long as the seed has not turned to mush, there is still hope for germination.   The seed will send down roots before it
  sends up a sprout.  Once germinated,
  the problems are not over.  A
  number of people have been successful in germinating the seed only to have it
  die from an unknown cause shortly thereafter. 
The second approach to germinating
  the seed is to mimic nature.  As the
  seed lies on the ground, there are hundreds of different types of fungi,
  bacteria and other microorganisms growing on and around that seed. The exact
  role of these organisms is uncertain, but it is possible that the gases and
  other chemicals that they produce may trigger and aid in the germination of
  the seed. That is why some recommend placing the seed in a plastic bag with
  organic matter (OM) and allow the OM to decompose. Leave the seed in the bag
  for a couple of weeks to a month. Then plant it in a pot with a well draining
  soil mix.  | 
Friday, August 3, 2012
Don’t Pile Mulch Against Tree Trunks
| 
Applying organic mulch to the
  garden provides many benefits: improves the soil structure, adds micro and
  macro nutrients to the soil, conserves water during a drought, and acts as a
  food source for many beneficial microorganisms living in the soil. 
When applying mulch around
  trees, however, an air space must be kept between the mulch and tree trunk so the bark
  can dry. A constantly wet trunk will provide a suitable environment for
  disease. This, of course, does not apply to all trees. For instance, the
  magnolias of the Southern States grow along streams and swamps.  But other trees, like citrus and avocado,
  are susceptible to crown rot.   
 If the
  fungal organism is present and the bark remains wet for a prolonged period of
  time, infection will occur.  Untreated,
  the tree will die. Don’t pile mulch against the tree, and don’t position
  sprinklers so the water hits the trunk. Keeping the tree trunks dry as much as possible is important. In general mulch enhances the health of trees but precautions need to be observed. |